Summative Assessment

How is gender and femininity explored within Pop Art?

 For the subject of my essay I have decided to look into the themes of femininity and gender and how they are expressed in Pop-art. In order to support my subject matter I will look into the work of Pauline Boty and James Rosenquist, what key meanings are explored and what I gain from their works. I also want to look into the ideas of gender and how art works can be directed to men by using the female form, how sex sells to both the male and female demographic, and how everything is ultimately at the mercy of the male gaze. I also want to look into the idea of the American Dream, and how it shapes and motivates lives, and how this echoed into the art world.

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Pauline Boty: It’s A Mans World II, 1965, Style- Feminist art, Pop art, Nude painting,

 This painting is a collection of pornographic images that have been painted in a collage format, it’s the main focal point in the foreground. The background is a simple landscape, using block colours and shape. This image is made up of two panels, with the landscape as the background and the nude women as the foreground. The form of the painting is very interesting, the panels have very harsh, straight lines which then conflicts with the soft, curved lines of the naked women. There are very angular squares surrounding the painted women, giving them their own borders and importance. Each image is a snapshot from a different magazine, and is an expression of the female form and femininity. Every woman is nude, with only two of the women wearing bottoms, and one woman using a thin curtain to cover herself. The fact that every woman is naked aloud’s to the idea that this image is for male pleasure. The women are all grouped together in the middle panel, depicting either to the fact that all women sit in the same box or that they are all standing together as one.

 The background of the image is a simple landscape, with soft flowing trees and shrubbery, from the flat, simple sky, to the unnatural colour of the lake. The whole landscape is a simplified version because it is not the main focal point, it is just background noise. Time and motion are missing from this piece, there are no clouds in the sky to show physical movement and all the women are painted in a snapshot fashion that a moment was captured and that is how the image will stay forever. Unity and variety go hand in hand in this piece, the women are all partaking in the same soft porn poses, but there is the variety in the way that each women is different, no one has the same hair, makeup, or body. The artwork is balanced with perfect symmetry, the middle panel splits the background evenly this makes the whole piece balanced. Emphasis in this piece is solely on the naked women, they are in the main part of the piece, and they have the most variety. They are the titles muse, they are for men in a man’s world.

 Some of the key meanings that I have gained form this image is that her piece is both a celebration and critique surrounding the female form, it is a celebration with the liberation of the naked body but a critique because it is for the male gaze. When you first view the image you are assaulted by the female bodies, it is only after the initial assault is over that you start to pay attention to the rest of the image. The landscape is also a celebration and critique of the female form as the rising and falling of hills and the trees echo the naked bodies. This piece is hypocritical with expression because these women are embracing their bodies but they are only embracing themselves this way for men, there is no freedom of their expression. These images have been taken out of pornographic magazines which are purely made for the male demographic. And that links seamlessly to the title which is all about a man’s world.

 “Most depictions of the female in paintings throughout history have been commissioned and painted by men for the pleasure of other men thus leading to the ‘male gaze.'”  This is an interesting artistic note because It’s a Man’s World II was created by a woman with the subject material being women. This is showing Pauline’s self-awareness to the world around her, she knows what sells and what men want to see, and men want to see women in their most raw state. Women have always been a main subject in art for their beauty and grace, and later for the unknown. In this piece the identity of the women is unknown because they have been taken from pornographic magazines which have then been mass produced removing any intimacy and identity? With the faces being obscured in some way this removes all personal feelings for these women that the viewer may gain, with them being from pornographic magazines they are purely objects of lust.

 The American Dream is not a modern concept, “…it was first publicly defined in 1931. Historian James Truslow Adams used the phrase in his book Epic of America… The American Dream is that dream of a land which life should be better and richer and fuller for everyone, with opportunity for each according to ability or achievement.” But this is not only an American standing point, for Botys was from England where similar ideas where you could become and be anyone you wanted to be. After the devastation of World War II there was a need for people to not only make the best of a bad situation but to make it better for themselves. A Man’s world supports the western ideals, what would a man’s world look like? In Botys eyes a man’s world would be filled with naked women at his fingertips with even the landscape ready to present the female form to him.

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James Rosenquist: I Love You with My Ford, 1961, oil on canvas, 6ft. ca. 10 in. x 7ft. 9 in. Moderna Musset, Stockholm.

 This artwork is a collection of advertisement style images that have been arranged in an anti-advertising format, these images have been used within the rules of re-signification. The main subject matter of this piece is the bumper of the car, the sensual woman laying down, and the coloured spaghetti. Rosenquist was originally a billboard painter, focusing on advertising which supports the graphic nature of the work, its bold and eye grabbing. This work was created in 1961, “when abstract expressionism drew to a close” and the start of a graphic, pop art age, this work reflects this as there appears to be no correlation between the images at first glance, it is only when you look deeper into the meanings that it becomes clearer.

 This work is a three panel oil painting which has further been quartered, they are all different images that are selling all different ideas. When I look at this image I get the idea that all these images are linked together for the male gaze, these are all images that would gain attention, from the big shiny and new car, to the colour of the food. Each element in this piece is dominant but some is more than other, this is a very thought provoking piece, there are any elements of thought and layers that can be pulled apart and analysed. Lines in this piece have been used to section and divide.

 Shapes in the top panel are repeated creating harmony and balance, which conflict with the rest of the piece, the bottom panel is chaotic and disorganised. Without the use of colour in the top panels the image is left very flat and cold, the use of shadow and tone conflicts with the brightness and colour of the food. This is a very clever use of tone as the eye is drawn to the intensity against a plain foreground. The top panels look as though they have been zoomed in to remove the context, which then forcing the images into an abstract field where the viewer has to make the context for themselves.

 When I first look at this image I am drawn into the sexual ideas and theories that surround this work, when looking at this image the eye is drawn to the colour at the bottom rather than scanning down the work like a book. The colour is the most interesting element until you start to pull apart the sexual themes that surround the work. I think this whole work is filled with western ideologies of gender and masculinity, the big muscle car supports the American dream. The American Dream is an idea that anyone, no matter where you come from can better oneself, and reach any goal, the main goals being own a house, car, have a wife and family, and be the best version of yourself.

 After the Second World War there was a huge boost in production of commodities as metal was no longer needed for the war effort, this saw the rise in car sales as they became more widely available. The car was seen as a masculine object because it was big, study, and associated with men as at the time before the 1960s before the women’s lib, it was mostly a male workforce, this then reflected in the consumer society. This then associated the car with power, wealth, and self-improvement, thus reinforcing the American Dream. Furthermore this idea links into the second panel, a woman who obscured from the viewer and laying down.

 One of the first things I noticed about this middle panel is that it is smallest and the least is focus, which bends to the idea that cars, and objects can be more important than people. One of the main things that captures my attention about the women being small and out of focus is the idea that people are background, and secondary to things that can be bought, reinforcing the capitalist ideology. It is a very sensual position, with her laying on her back with her mouth open, as though she is in the throes of passion, tapping into carnal desires. Although it is not directly sexual the position of the woman brings forth sexual innuendos to the uncultured mind. Furthermore, this links into the ideas surrounding the American Dream, because once a man has gained a car it’s only natural for him to pick up women who would later become his wife and give him children. This is supported by the artwork, because the eye flows down the piece from the car to the women, insinuating that you can’t have one without the other.

 “When I copied a 1940s spaghetti illustration, I had to ask myself, why am I doing this? I didn’t honestly know. It was just an instinct about images as pure form… in a sense the spaghetti is like an abstract expressionist painting. De Kooning loved it. He said it was sexy.”

 The final (and most interesting for me) panel is not only the largest of the three but the only one in colour. Rosenquist himself was unsure what attracted him to the image of spaghetti but that it was like an abstract painting, that idea that anything can be art, even brightly coloured, mass-produced food, or the bumpers of cars. Similar cases have arose in the art world before, ideas that if the artist did not make the objects expressed then is it really a work of art, but then all these theories get thrown out the window when it comes to painting. By nature painting is the be-all-end-all of classical art, artworks included but are not limited to the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. There is also the museum critique that just because something is on a canvas and hung up in a gallery does even the most obscure objects become works of high classical art. This links into the spaghetti because Rosenquist just liked the look of it, the form, and expression, but when placed with the other images he has created a dream chasing, erotic image.  The whole use of colour also makes the spaghetti all the more real, but also engages the ideas about sound and texture. When looking at the spaghetti it’s easy to images the wet sound of the food moving around on a plate, and the slimy wetness of a cold food that should be served hot.

 The whole piece is titled I Love You With My Ford, not only making the Ford a main focal point in the image but also a cold, material, manmade object to base human feelings and emotions off. This is also linking into the idea of masculinity and gender when expressing emotions, it’s though that you are unable to love without this material object. That without this object to fulfil the American Dream there is no base line for emotion, all emotions lead up to objects that can be compared to people. I Love You With My Ford is also a critique of this capitalist driven society that places the means for objects above people, in this work the woman is the smallest part, unfocused and distant, and the need to collect and own becomes the sole, shining purpose of the American working class man’s life.

 Throughout this essay I have been exploring the ideas of gender, how sex is sold to the population, and how the American Dream seeps into every corner of art. Boty and Rosenquist both use all three of these elements to gain the viewers’ attention, drag out all analytical ideas and themes that can be both personal and public. When looking at the Boty image I was first drawn into the complex ideas of the female from and how it is perceived by a male demographic, but as I started to look deeper into the image there were more subtle theories. For Its A Man’s World II, there was the idea that there are masculine expectations about the world they live in, and that women are a secondary factor. This idea is also supported by Rosenquist in I Love You With My Ford, the women in the image is smaller, not in focus, and just reduced to a carnal ideal. Woman have always been used in artworks and painting, their soft lines, and hidden mysteries, but in Botys work they are complete bare, and any mystery is lost. The woman are on display like a piece of meat, the images are hung together and placed in a patchwork of carnal fantasy and desire.

 The American Dream became a main focal point of analysis when looking at Rosenquists work because of the factors that surround the time in which it was created, the 1950’s and 1960’s saw a huge boost in capitalist and commodity consumption. After the war there was a lot to be desired that the American people went without, the car has always been seen as a wealthy man’s prize, so it was only natural that people wanting to better themselves and their lives would see the car as the ultimate status symbol. The title of the piece may be about the Ford but it’s not close to being the main focal point, the colour and texture of the spaghetti violently takes the viewers eyes and reluctantly lets go.

Conceptualism

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Damien Hirst, The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living, 1991

  1. The readymade and its consequences 
  2. Features of conceptual art
  3. Issues and questions.

Is art primarily concerned with objects or ideas?

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The Case Against Fountain:

1: Duchamp didn’t make this object, therefore it can’t be a work of art,

  • However, Rodin didn’t personally cast this bronze or carve this marble, there are at least 319 full size bronze casts of this sculpture.

                                Auguste Rodin, The Kiss, 1889-1904 (?)

2: This wasn’t intended as a work of art when it was made, therefore it can’t be a work of art,

  • However, museums are full of objects that were not intended as art when they were made.

(Left) Viking helmet, c.6-700AD, (Right) Peruvian Moche bottle, c.50BC-100AD

3: Anyone could do this, therefore it can’t be a work of art,

  • What does ‘do’ mean in this context: perform or conceive? Is it only things that are difficult to perform that are worth looking at?

Enso paintings: (Left) Hakuin Ekaku Zenji, 1686-1769, (Right) Yamada Mumon, 1900-1988.

4: If this is art, then everything is art. If everything is art, then nothing is art.

  • Sine the readymade, everything is potentially a work of art. In this situation ‘art; does not describe a type of object instead describes a way of engaging with the world.

(Left) Joseph Beuys, Sweep Up, 1972, (Right) Francis Alys, When Faith Moves Mountains, 2002.

What is Kosuth’s argument against formalist art?

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        Joseph Kosuth, Box, Cube, Empty, Clear, Glass- a Description, 1965

  • The function of art is to investigate the concept ‘art’. Therefor art has nothing to do with aesthetics, or looking beautiful.
  • Formalist art accepts the concept of ‘art’ without question (for instance, formalist artist accept that painting is an art).
  • Therefore formalist artists do not investigate the concept ‘art’.
  • Therefor formalist art is barley art at all.
  • Instead formalist art is dominated by aesthetics.
  • Therefor formalist art is decoration (not really art).
  • Aesthetics are irrelevant to art because any object can become art as a readymade.

Kosuth doesn’t dismiss Jackson Pollock’s work entirely, but what does he think is worthwhile and what worthless?

Do you agree with the reasons he gives?

Features of conceptual art:

  1. Conceptual art contains concepts.
  2. Conceptual art is often linguistic. There is a particular interest in paradox, ambiguity, and tautology.
  3. Conceptual art is often against the idea that the work of art is a unique object.
  4. Conceptual art is often non-visual.

1. Concepts:

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Sol LeWitt, Successive Rows of Horizontal, Straight lines from Top to Bottom & Vertical, Straight Lines from Left to Right, 1972.

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John Baldessari, Everything is purged from this painting but art, no ideas have entered this work, 1968.

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John Baldessari, This not to be looked at, 1968.

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ArtForum, December 1966 (featuring Frank Stella, Union, 1966)

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Rene Magritte, The Treachery of Images, 1926.

  • What is the relation between world and image in Magritte’s panting?
  • Is it the same as the relation between word and image in Baldessari’s piece?

2. Language:

Joseph Kosuth, Titled (art as idea as idea), 1967

2a. Paradox:

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Robert Barry, All the thing I know but of which I am not at the moment thinking, 1969

2b) Ambiguity:

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John Hilliard, Cause of Death? 1974

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Martha Rosler, The Bowery in two inadequate descriptive systems, 1974

2c) Tautology:

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Joseph Kosuth, Five Words in Blue Neon, 1965

  • X=X is a tautology.
  • E=mc2 is not a tautology 
  • ‘Art is not what is not art’ Ad Reinhardt.

Kosuth argues that all works of art are tautologus:

In what way is Fountain a tautology?

  • For Kosuth, Fountain is the equivalent of: ‘If this is a work of art, then this is a work of art.’
  • This is the same as what Kosuth later stays about the work of art as an analytic proposition.

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Sol LeWitt, Red Square, White Letters, 1962

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On Kawara, October 31, 1978, 1978

3.) Anti-uniqueness:

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Lawrence Weiner, One quart exterior green industrial enamel thrown on a brick wall, 1968

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Slide36b739543cc8acd9b98be686fd930a9342Sol LeWitt, From the word ‘art’: blue lines to 4  sides, and red lines between the words, 1972

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Sol LeWitt, 10,000 lines about 5″ long, 1971

  • How do LeWitt’s ideas about conceptual art compare with Kosuth’s?
  • Why does he say that conceptual artists are mystics?

4) Anti-visual (dematerialisation) 

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Art & Language, The Content of this painting is invisible…, 1968

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Art & Language, Map not to indicate…,1967

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Douglas Huebler, Boston- New York Exchange Shape, 1968

Issues:

1. Is there a conceptual aesthetic?

2. The trouble with documentation…

  • Do you think these photos are what they say they are?
  • If these pictures are not of Boltanski, is he a liar?
  • If we do not think these pictures as lies, how should we regard them?

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Christian Boltanski, 10 Photographic Portraits of Christian Boltanski, 1946-64, 1972

3. Are all readymades the same?

 

 

After Modernism: Recap

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                                           Jackson Pollock, Cathedral, 1947

1.  Abstract Expressionism & Clement Greenberg:

  • Self-definition and self-critique (this is what prevents modernist art from becoming mere entertainment).
  • 3 unique features of painting;
  1. Two-dimensionality,
  2. The rectangular shape of the support,
  3. The properties of pigment.
  • But many artists come to feel trapped by a reductive prescription of painting.

2. Pop Art

  • Interested in the relation between art and commercial culture.
  • Interested in obvious and banal imagery.
  • Interested in the clash between high and low culture.
  • Debate about whether Pop art was a celebration of consumer culture, or a critique of it.

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                                          Claes Oldenburg, 7-Up Sign, 1961

3. Fluxus 

  • Fluxus aimed at overcoming the distinction between art and life, sense and nonsense, object and event.
  • Music, rather than painting, was taken as the model for artist creation.
  • Many Fluxus works depended on the activity of the audience to exist. This is quite unlike Greenberg’s notion that each art from should become autonomous.
  • In the Fluxus Manifesto flux is 3 meanings:
  1.  Purging ( it is anit-art)
  2.  Flooding (promoting new forms)
  3. Fusing (art and life)

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                                         George Maciunas, Fluxkit, 1964-5

Minimalism 

  1.  To examine Judd’s and Morris’s ideas
  2.  To look at gestalt psychology and phenomenology as interpretative strategies
  3.  To identify the main features of minimalism
  4.  To discuss gender in relation to minimalism
  5.  To investigate has post-minimalist arists developed minimalist ideas
  6.  To consider the significance of minimalism in contemporary art

Who were the minimalists?

  • Everyone agrees on 5 names:
  1.  Donald Judd
  2.  Carl Andre
  3.  Sol LeWitt
  4.  Robert Morris
  5.  Dan Flavin

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There are also a number of artists who are sometimes describes as minimalists:

  • Frank Stella
  • Anne Truitt
  • Tony Smith

What is wrong with painting (according to Judd):

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                         Barnett Newman, Vir Heroivus Sublimis, 1950-1

  • Rectangularity
  • Oil paint & canvas
  • Pictorial space

Six Mile Bottom 1960 by Frank Stella born 1936

                                     Frank Stella, Six Mile Bottom, 1960

  • ‘My painting is based on the fact that only what can be see there is there. All I want anyone to get out of my paintings and all I can get put them is the fact that you see the whole idea without any confusion (..) What you see is what you see.’ Frank Stella, ArtNews 65, September 1966.
  • ‘The shapes, the unity, order projection and color are specific, aggressive and powerful.’ Donald Judd, Specific Objects, 1965.
  • ‘A painting isn’t an image.’ Donald Judd, Specific Objects, 1965.

 

(Left) David Smith, Becca, 1965. (Right) Louise Nevelson, The Tropical Gardens, 1957.

What is wrong with sculpture (according to Judd):

Conventional modernist sculpture:

  • is made bit by bit
  • is made only wood and metal
  • lacks colour

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                                             Donald Judd, Untitled, 1965

What is a ‘specific object’?

  • one thing rather than a relation between parts
  • fabricated not crafted
  • commercial/industrial materials, not ‘art’ materials
  • integral, not applied colour
  • the junction between planes and between materials become the primary focus of attention. (Judd doesn’t actually say this, but it is implied in his practice.)

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                                     Carl Andre, Equivalent VIII, 1966

“In the three-dimensional work the whole thing is made according to complex purposes, and these are not scattered but asserted by one form.” Donald Judd, Specific Objects, 1965

  • Does Andre’s work suggest ‘complex purposes’?
  • Does the work suggest an idea? if so, what is it?

“I don’t start with an idea or concept or a drawing or anything like that, I have to start with a set of physical realities that I order in a way which I find satisfying to me. So I have to go and, as I said, the open end of my work is scavenging; just walking through the streets of the city and coming upon construction sites and finding groups of material and taking them. And often I have these groups sitting on the floor and I try to figure out what is the sort of the just combination of these pieces.” Carl Andre, 1972.

Robert Morris, ‘Notes on Sculpture’, Art Forum, February, 1966.

What does Morris say is the difference between painting and sculpture?

  • Painting is illusionistic; sculpture is literal
  • Painting is optical, sculpture is tactile

What are the unique features of sculpture?

  • shape
  • simplicity
  • wholeness
  • openness
  • extendibility
  • accessibility
  • publicness
  • repeatability
  • equanimity
  • directness
  • immediacy

What is intimacy in sculpture, and why is Morris so against it?

  • An intimate sculpture carries all its space within itself
  • In an intimate sculpture the details of texture and construction become significant
  • In an intimate sculpture the quality the finish matters
  • An intimate sculpture is private, not public- it ‘tends to eliminate the viewer’
  • ‘In (…) these sculptures, an eye-level examination of the work alters the scale of miniaturization first perceived by the viewer. The vastness of the empty piazza and the anonymity of the figures are revealed by such close-up scrutiny.’ Elizabeth Childs, Guggenheim website.

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                                      Alberto Giacometti, Piazza, 1947-9

What is ‘gestalt’ and Why is Morris interested in it?

  • Literally, ‘gestalt’ means ‘form’ or ‘shape’.
  • Gestalt psychology is a theory that attempts to explain how we perceive the world.
  • In Morris’s essay gestalts are presented as the basic forms of perception. Because they are the most basic, Morris implies (but does not quite say) that gestalts are the purest forms of perception.
  • Critics and viewers worried that there was not enough to look at in minimalist work. Morris used the idea of gestalt to claim that minimalist work offers a vision of wholeness.

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Robert Morris, Untitled (Slab), 1964

Features of gestalt psychology or perception:

  • reification
  • multi-stability
  • grouping: similarity
  • grouping: proximity
  • grouping: closure
  • emergence

Minimalism and Phenomenology:

  • ‘The object is but one of the terms in the newer aesthetic. It is in some way ore reflexive because one’s awareness of oneself existing in the same space as the work is stronger than in previous work.’  Robert Morris, Notes on Sculpture, 1966.

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  Geometrical diagram showing point of observation (form Wikipedia)

Vision is often conceived as disembodied. Phenomenology stresses the role of the entire sensing body. It argues that we understand out environment in relation to our bodies rather than in terms of abstract qualities. The experience that art offers is more important than its meaning.

‘The awareness of scale in a function of the comparison made between (…) one’s body size, and the object.’ Robert Morris, Notes on Sculpture, 1966.

                                    Richard Serra, Backdoor Pipeline, 2010

6 Features of Minimalism:

1. Simplicity (gestalt)

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                                             Donald Judd, Untitled, 1969

  • ‘minimalist work complicates the purity of conception with the contingency of perception’ Hal Foster, The Return of the Real, 1996.
  • ‘the known constant and the perceived variable’ Robert Morris, Notes on Sculpture, 1966.

2. Scale 

Q: Why didn’t you make it larger so that it would loom over the observer?

A: I was not making a monument.

Q: Then why didn’t you make it smaller so that the observer could see over the top?

A: I was not making an object.

Tony Smith in Robert Morris, Notes on Sculpture, 1966

                                                        Tony Smith, Die, 1962

3. Repetition 

  • ‘The order is not rationalistic and underlying but is simply order, like that of continuity, one thing after anther.’ Donald Judd, Specific Objects, 1965.

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                                     Carl Andre, Zinc Steel Plain, 1969

  • Although it looks like a recognisable object, Uccello’s drawing is not really about observed reality (look at the vertical line that runs from top to bottom).
  • Each unit on the circumference of the chalice is identical. Uccello is fascinated by the way repetition produces differences.

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                                    Paolo Uccello, Chalice, c.1450

4. Gravity 

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                                          Robert Morris, L-Beams, 1967

5. Systems 

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                                  Sol LeWitt, 1 2 3 2 1 (Cross), 1980

6. Colour 

  • Do colour and pattern reinforce one another?
  • How many colours are there?

Hyena Stomp 1962 by Frank Stella born 1936

                                    Frank Stella, Hyena Stomp, 1962

Minimalism and Gender:

  • On the surface, minimalism wouldn’t seem to have any interest in gender as the objects it makes are so bare of any kind of figurative reference. However, this piece by Robert Morris suggests otherwise. The ‘I’ that forms the lid of the box reefers to the notion of self, but it is also like a steel I-beam, suggesting a link between masculinity, minimalism, and industrialisation.

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                                             Robert Morris, I-Box, 1962

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                Sol Lewitt, Schematic Drawing for Muybridge II, 1964/1970

  • Even Sol Lewitt, whose work is normally austere and cerebral, made works about sex and gender. Muybridge II was a long rectangular box with 10 peepholes. Inside the peepholes the figure of a naked woman can be seen in increasing close-up. Vision is here associated with a kind of sexual power or domination. (Muybridge was a 19th Century photographer whose works analyse movement, but also power over their subjects.)

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               Eadweard Muybridge, A Woman Getting into Bed, 1887

  • David Batchelor talks about this work (Eva Hesse) as a metaphor for the human body. It has an inside and an outside (in contrast to many minimalist works which are all exterior). The inside and outside are integrated (by the little rubber tubes pushed though the holes in the steel mesh) but each offers a quite different experience.

accession-ii-1968.jpg                                            Eva Hesse, Accession II, 1969

  • Greenberg supported Truitt’s work, which annoyed the minimalist. He suggested that she had ‘invented’ minimalism before them, and that their work was derivative.
  • The surface of her objects are always hand painted (not industrially fabricated). This enabled Greenberg to defend her work as a form of extended painting, rather than strictly sculpture.
  • He also stoked the gender debate by claiming that her work was ‘truly’ feminine whereas theirs was exaggeratedly and artificially masculine.

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                                       Anne Truitt, Primrose, 1962

What reasons might there be for thinking of Truitt’s work as minimalist?

And what reasons for thinking of it as non-minimalist?

Features of Post-minimalism:

1. Gestalt?

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                                    Robert Smithson Non-Site (Essen) 1969

Do you see a pile of rubble (as a gestalt)?

  • Gestalt means ‘form’ or ‘shape’ and there is a simple form to this arrangement even if it is dirt placed with mirrors.

2. Chance 

Why go to the bother of arranging stuff, if its just as interesting to chuck it on the floor?

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                                   Carl Andre, Spill (Scatter Piece), 1966

3. Formlessness 

  • This is made of cut felt, Morris is interested in the way that the form of the piece is beyond control.
  • This is something a number of artists become interested in.

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                                      Robert Morris, Untitled, 1968 (2008)

  • The work is formed of strings of latex. Hesse follows a process without knowing exactly what the end result will be. The sensuous qualities of the material are allowed to dominate the visual form.
  • You could also look at this work as a response to Pollock’s drip paintings.

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                                           Eva Hesse, Right After, 1969

  • This work is made from polyurethane paints. Once it dries it can be lifted from the floor like a mat. It is a form of painting that is free of the constraints that Judd identifies.

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                                           Lynda Benglis, Contraband, 1969

4. Softness

  • This is like a standard repetitive minimalist work, with identical cylinders. However, because the cylinders are made of latex each one becomes individual. Once again, the material is used to over-ride the system.

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                                Eva Hesse, Repetition Nineteen III, 1968

5. Drama 

  • These objects are very heavy and are kept n place by gravity alone- no welding or fixing.

(Left) Richard Serra, Prop, 1968. (Right) Richard Serra, One Ton Prop (House of Cards), 1969

6. Monumentality 

                                         Richard Serra, Tilted Arc, 1981-9

Contemporary art & minimalism:

  • These are not minimalist works, but each in its own way is related to some of the concerns of minimalist artists.

(Left) Rachel Whiteread, Ghost, 1990, (Right) Damien Hirst, The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living, 1991.

 

Fluxus: The Roots of Fluxus

 

                                           Wolf Vostell, Sun in your Head, 1963

The Roots of Fluxus:

1. Dada:

  • Irrationality,
  • Performance,
  • Chance,
  • Iconoclasm.

 

                  Hugo Ball reciting phonetic poetry at Cabaret Voltaire, 1916

 

(Left) Jean Arp, collage with Squares Arranged According to the Laws of Chance, 1916-17. (Right) Hannah Hoch, Equilibrium, 1925.

2. Art v. Life.

  • Many modernist artists believed that art should be a part of life and not some specialised activity separate from the process of living.  There were two approaches to achieving this goal:
  • i) Abandon thr traditional forms of art (painting, sculpture, ect) and fuse art with design, and in this way revolutionise and enrich the experience of living.
  • Constructivism, Bauhaus.
  • ii) Revolutionise the basis of everyday life (through technology, psychoanalysis) and allow new forms of art to spring up to reflect these changes.
  • Futurism, Surrealism.

 

(Left) Marcel Breuer, Wassily chair, 1927. (Right) Dorothe Tanning, Raing Day Canape, 1970.

3. John Cage

  • Chance,
  • Scores,
  • Experimentalism.

 

(Left) John Cage performing on a toy piano, 1960, (Top Right) Benjamin Patterson, score for String Music, 1960, (Bottom Right) John Cage, score for Fontana Mix, 1958.

The evolution of modern art, according to Dick Higgins:

1. Collage – Pablo Picasso, Still Life with Chair Caning, 1911-12

2. Combine – Robert Rauschenberg, Monogram, 1955-9

3. Environment – Eduardo Paolozzi, Nigel Henderson, Peter & Alison Smithson, This is Tomorrow, 1956

4. Happening – Allan Kaprow, Yard, 1967

5. Event – Philip Corner, Piano Activities, 1962

6. Concentration – George Brecht, Two Vehicle Events, 1961

 

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  • How does Higgin’s account compare with Greenberg’s?
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Shigeko Kubota, Vagina Painting, 1965

How is Kubota’s work related to Abstract Expressionism?

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George Maciunas, Fluxus Manifesto, 1963

How do you read this manifesto?

What kind of object is it?

Why are some parts printed and other parts handwritten?

What is fluxus according to Maciunas?

How does it compare with Cleas Oldenburg’s I am for an art..?

9 Features of Fluxus, according to Dick Higgins:

1. Internationalism

  • Fluxus was international from the start and included artists from USA, Japan, Germany, South Korea, and France.

 

                              Ray Johnson & others, Mail art, various dates.

2. Anti-art and iconoclasm 

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                       Henry Flynt demonstrating outside MoMA New York, 1963.

3. Intermedia 

  • ‘Imagine, perhaps, an art form that is comprised of 10% music, 25% architecture, 12% drawing, 18% shoemaking, 30% panting and 5% smell. what would it be like? how would it work? how would some of the specific art works appear? How would they function? How would the elements interact?’ (Friedman, 1998: 247-8)

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                                          George Brecht, Water Yam, 1963-5

4. Concentration/ simplicity

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                                              Nam June Paik, Zen for Head, 1962

5. Art & Life

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6. Activation of the audience

 

                                                     Yoko Ono, Cut Piece, 1965

7. Games, Jokes, Playing 

  • Established games were subjected to the Fluxus treatment. Preventing the game from working makes the absurdity of the rules visible. But there is also an idea that once released from their absurd conventional rules, games become available to life again: Fluxus table tennis does not formalise social relationships, but instead opens a space where genuine social interaction might take place.

 

                        George Maciunas, Fluxus Table Tennis and Rackets, 1960s

8. Ephemeralitly and invisibility 

  • Filliou’s project was ‘to become integrated into the crowd’. In what sense is that a project? What needs to be done to enable it to happen? Does this photo show him integrated into the crowd, or does the fact that we can see him mean that he is still unintegrated?
  • Once again, a very simple idea opens onto all sorts of impossibilities and absurdities.

9. Specificity 

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                                     Ben Vautire, Fluxus Suicide Kit, 1963

What Dick Higgins doesn’t mention…

A) Mysticism

  • Paik was one of many Fluxus artists who was interested in mysticism.
  • What would a TV look like if it could meditate on its own existence?

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                                              Nam June Paik, Zen for TV, 1976

  • Joseph Beuys created a whole personal mythology. He had served in the Luftwaffe during WWII and was shot down. His story is that the plane crashed on a remote mountainside, but all the crew (apart from himself) died. He was rescued by some nomadic tribesmen who covered him in fat and wrapped him in felt and so saved his life. So far as we are aware, the story isn’t true. But it sheds light on his use of materials: felt and fat are protective and nurturing in Beuys’ universe, so the slab of fat on the chair is not repulsive (although, of course, it is) but protecting the chair as a symbol of human civilisation.

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                                         Joseph Beuys, Chair with Fat, 1963

  • Similarly, the felt protects against the aggression of the spear. Other materials have other qualities. Metal (which tips the spear) is a conductor: it transmits energy and heat – it is communication, whilst felt is insulate and isolates. In the way these simple abstract and apparently irrational sculptures are used by Beuys to symbolise complex ideas about human society and nature.

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                                               Joseph Beuys, Untitled, 1985

B) Music 

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                                   Charlotte Moorman & Nam Jume Paik

C) Meaning and meaningless 

  • This is the first poem ‘composed’ by computer. Knowles fed in a variety of 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th lines and then instructed the computer to select at random.

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                                 Alison Knowles, A House of Dust, 1967

D) Boredom 

  • Boredom was pretty important to Fluxus. In the world of the avant-garde, artists could be as outrageous as they liked as long as they weren’t boring. To many of these artists boredom felt like the last taboo.
  •  What was good about boredom for them was that the artwork disappeared from view and life came to occupy the space previously reserved for art.

E) Politics 

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               Joseph Beuys, Overcome Party Dictatorship Now, poster, 1970-72

  • This poster shows Beuys and a group of students involved in direct action/artwork: protesting the compulsory felling of trees and cleaning up the woods.

Beuys was a political activist throughout his life;

  • In 1967 he founded the German Student Party.
  • In 1971 he began the Organisation for Direct Democracy through Referendum.
  • In 1974 he was one of the founder members for the Free International University.
  • And in 1980 he was one the founder members of the German Green Party.

 

‘Artist, anti-artists, non-artists, anartists, the politically committed and the apolitical, poets and non-poetry, non-dancers dancing, doers, undoers and non-doers, Fluxus encompasses opposites. Consider opposing it, supporting it, changing your mind’. 

George Brecht (1963)

(In Jacqueline Baas, Fluxus and the Essential Questions Of Life, University of Chicago Press, 2011, p.8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pop Art & Consumerism

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Is there a real difference between what an artist does and what a manufacturer does, or are they both engaged in the same activity: selling stuff?

How do these artworks alter the ordinary associations of shopping trolleys?

(Christo, Pousette (Packed Supermarket Cart 1963)) (Sylvie Fleury, ELA 75/K Easy, Breezy Beautiful No. 6, 2000) 

  • The shopping trolley on the left is a very simple design but when it is compared with the one on the right you can see the design has not changed as it is perfect for the job it has to perform.
  •  When you look at the design on the left there is a mystery as to what the trolley is containing, there is the impressions of items but no clear definition

The taste pyramid:

Does the idea of taste as a pyramid still exist today? 

How does it function?

Where would you position artworks on this pyramid?

What does Alloway think are the problems associated with it?

How does he think these could be resolved?

Do you agree with him?

What does Alloway mean by ‘pop art’? 

(John Bratby, Jean with Dog, 1954.   Eduardo Paolozzi, Cyclops, 1957)

How much is a work of art worth? $192?

Andy Warhol, 192 One Dollar Bills, 1962.

This picture was sold at Christie’s New York in 2009 for $43,800,000.

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How much is a fake Brillo Box worth?

In 1994: $6000

In 2006: one was sold at Christies, London for $208,695

In 2007: one was pulled from auction when it became known it belonged to this group.

Some of the 105 Brillo boxes made in 1990 (3 years after Warhol’s death) at Moderna Musset, Sweden.

The boxes were made by Pontus Hulten who provided a certificate of authentication for each of them, saying that they had been made in 1968. The forgeries were made at the centre of the art world rather than the margins.

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what are the main differences between Vostells and Warhols depictions of coco-cola  what do these differences mean 

When looking at these images the main differences are very obvious, the Vostell, is a story, with the layers that have been ripped apart you can see the outline of faces, it is places on a billboard style, meaning it is to be see, its messy like life that happens around cola, but it also looks like the cola ad is underneath the top layers that have been ripped, this is interesting because there is the idea that even tho you might forget about cola and it may be covered there is still the image and idea that is left behind, we all know the red of coke, and the idea remains that there is a strong capitalist movement though subliminal text.

When you look at the Warhol you can make out every shape, clean line, the print look like an advert, there is no artists liberty like with the Vostell, there is no personality to the image there is just the pure image in its original form, this is a very plain and boring description of what cola is as Warhole could of added colour into the print, or texture, but the main idea is that no matter how plain or messy the image of cola will always shine though for advertising and for symbolism.

What is Oldenburg’s attitude to American culture in I am for an art…?

What is the form of his text?

Does it contain a theory of art?

How does Oldenburg’s text, I am for n art… relate to his practice?

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Gerhard Richter and Konrad Leug, Living with pop, a demonstrtion of Capitalsit realism 

This was an art show in a dept, store, downstairs painting were displayed as part of the simulated interiors you find in dept. stores. Upstairs the artists put the furniture on plinths and sat around ‘performing’ (doing nothing).

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Rosalyn Drexler, Love and Violence 1963 

Her work looks into the idea of what is love and what is considered violence, she takes well know movie posters, two lovers in an embrace, but when you take away the rest of the scene you see a man grabbing a woman, forcing her to him, possessing her, this then makes us question everything we see and know and how is love and what is violence, these images are show to us from movies posters, adverts, everywhere we look there is the idea of a man controlling a woman, where he is holding her or passionately kissing her. The shocking thing when looking at her work is that when these images have text, names, information for a romantic film that what we take it as romance, and its only when you remove everything else is it that we begin to see the major problems with what is happening, and the possessiveness we have to expect for males who love us.

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Pauline Boty, Its a Man’s World II, 1965-66

In this work I think she is exploring the idea of what is the female form and how do men perceive it, the main things that you see in this image are the naked women who are challenging you to look at them, they dare you too look at the pornographic nature of the positions. you have women with their arms over their head in a relaxed but forced position making there breasts look larger, you have a woman draped with a sheer curtain the optimum of nude photography, the whole lay out of the women is to grab a males attention, its all positions meant for men’s eyes only, what I find interesting about this image is the background, the way the sky is one tone, how there isn’t any real definition to the landscape just light hints of texture, what I also find interesting is that on the left side on the landscape you have a sloping, rising landscape that is a direct echo to the women, its almost as if she is saying that it may be a mans world but a women’s form and influence is in everything you see and admire.

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James Rosenquist, I Love You with My Ford, 1961

I really like this image by Rosenquist because it is such a subjective image, there is no right or wrong about this you can take it for face value, its a selection of three images that might have major importance to the artist, his car, his partner, and spaghetti, or you can look further into the ideas behind the image, what is painter trying to tell us about the American dream and the American male mentality. You can pull apart the individual elements of the image, the big, heavy mussel car, the element of the American Dream, the material goal, the next panel is of a woman, we cant see her all of her identity its just the idea of having a beautiful woman that yours, shes in a very sensual pose, shes laying on her back with her eyes closed. This could be her laying in the back of the car, these two things link together in a cohesive way. The final panel is of some spaghetti, its interesting that this panel is in colour, with the use of colour you can image the smell and taste of the spaghetti, you can also hear the wet sound of the food, this then links into the other two panels and the middle of more because you can group together the ideas of a woman laying n the backseat of a car and the wet sound of moving spaghetti.

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Other notable pop art works:

  • Claes Oldenburg, Soft Engine for Airflow No.5, 1966
  • Andy Warhol, Ambulance Disaster, 1963/1982
  • Andy Warhol, Green Car, 1963
  • Richard Hamilton, Hommage a Chrysler Carp., 1957,

How important is the car?

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Tom Wesselmann, Bathtub Collage, No.2, 1963

How does this image relate to gender?

  • The male and female relating colour scheme, pink and purple= feminine, blues and yellow= masculine,
  • A woman in a relaxing bath, on the phone, with a big fluffy towel,
  • A cold, lid up toilet, is a very masculine image, there are male products on the shelf, there is a clear division in the image,
  • The orange shower curtain is a perfect division line because its neither a male or female in this context, the colour works in harmony with the two gender messages.

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How did Pop Art challenge Greenberg’s theory of modernism?

  1. By incorporating mediated imagery- the more mediate the better, rather than trying to discover an immediate image through the process of painting
  2. By attempting to overturn the division between high and low art.
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Robert Rauschenberg, Estate, 1963

Pop art treats the representation of particular objects as convention signs. The artists are less interested in producing an illusionistic picture of the world than in making a telling arrangement of objects. The theorist Roland Barthes gives a semiotic analysis of this advert in ‘The Rhetoric of the Image’

 

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Roland Barthes, ‘The Rhetoric of the Image’ in Image, Music, Text, New York, 1977.

What is a sign?

  • A sign is something that stands to somebody for something else.
  • A sign always points to something that is absent.
  • All communication is dependent on signs.
  • Anything that has meaning is a sign.

His analysis depends on the working of 3 pairs of terms

1. Signifier and signified:

  • From: Ferdinand de Saussure, Course in General Linguistics, (1913)
  • A sign consists of a signifier (the thing you see or hear ect.)
  • And a signified (what the signifier refers to.)
  • The relation between signifier and signified is arbitrary.
  • The theory was developed to explain how language works, the word ‘dog’ does not look like or sound like a real dog. The bond between signifier and signified is clearly arbitrary. The system does not work quite as smoothly with pictures: a picture of a dog, even if it is just a stick figure, has to look like a dog, so the bond between signifier and signified is not completely arbitrary, even though it may be highly conventional.

2. Connotation and denotation:

  • Barthes uses these two terms to overlay signifier and signified.
  • Denotation: Tomato- At a certain basic level, a photo of an object (not a drawing or a painting) is a sign, but it is simply a sign of that object.
  • Connotations: freshness, goodness, tastiness, Italian-ness, ‘one of your five-a-day’, ect.
  • Once we have recognised the object, it becomes associated with all kinds of qualities that are not directly visible, which derive from the cultural status of the object.
  • This is not an exhaustive list; he argues that images contain an indefinite number of connotations. It is always possible to find one more. What is important in an advert is that viewers should be able to pick up enough to understand the message.
  • Barthes’ reading of the connotations of the advert- still life painting, the return for market, freshness ect, everything you need for a complete meal, paradigm: the tin of tomato puree is as good as a fresh tomato, the colours of the Italian flag (=Italian-ness)

3. Paradigm and syntagm.

  • The terms describe the ways in which signs relate to one another:
  • Paradigms are signs that can be exchanged for one another
  • Syntagms are signs liked together to form a sequence.

 

Abstract expressionism and Greenberg

Art & Language, Portrait of V.I.Lenin in cap, in the style of Jackson Pillock III, 1980

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  • The roots of abstract expressionism, 
  • 4 features of abstract expressionism,
  • Clement Greenberg and Formalism.

Contributory causes to the rise of Abstract expressionism:

  • Desire to claim cultural leadership,
  • Official sponsorship (art as a weapon of the Cold War)
  • Desire to synthesise the main trends of European art

Cubism: what did cubism mean to painters in New York in the 1940s?

  1. Fragmentation of form
  2. Politics (engagement with the outside world)
  3. Line and plane
  4. Flatness Vs. Volume

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(Pablo Picasso, Guernica, 1937)

Surrealism: What did surrealism mean to painters in New York in the 1940s?

  1. Automatism
  2. Hidden imagery
  3. Desire (engagement with the internal world)

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(Andre Masson, The KIll, 1944. Andre Masson, Pasiphae, 1937. Hans Hofmann, The Wind, 1942. Jackson Pollock, Pasiphae, 1943.)

4 Features of Abstract Expressionism:

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“That these pictures were big is no cause for surprise; the abstract expressionists were being compelled to do huge canvases by the fact that they had increasingly renounced an illusion of depth within which they could develop pictorial incident without crowding; the flattening surfaces of their canvases compelled them to move along the picture plane literally and seek in its sheer physical size the space necessary for the telling of their kind of pictorial story.” (Clement Greenberg, American-Type painting, 1955)

Clement Greenberg & Formalism:

Why does Greenberg call Kant the first modernist?

  • Traditionally philosophy had been used to investigate the world,
  • Kant used philosophy to investigate philosophy, it became self-critical.
  • Modernist art is self-critical.

Grennberg’s formalist definition of painting:

  • two-dimensionality
  • the rectangular shape of the support
  • the properties of the pigment

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Jackson Pollock, Autumn Rhythm, 1950

Is it possible to have an intense emotional experience while being conscious that you are only looking at marks on a surface?

But not all paintings are flat and rectangular…

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Claude Monet, Nympheas, 1920-26

The painting is neither flat nor rectangular.

Monet wants the painting to envelop the viewer so that we even forget where the borders are. it is illusionist (bad, in Greenberg’s terms) but not in the way Old Master paintings are illusionist.

The evolution of Modernist painting, according to Greenberg:

‘Ever so many factors thought to be essential to the making and experience of art have been shown not to be so by the fact that Modernist art has been able to dispense with them and yet continue to provide the experience of art in all its essentials.’ Clement Greenberg, Modernist Painting.

Claude Monet, Rouen Cathedral, 1894

  • You can remove Bouguereau’s under-painting and glazing; you can remove all Manet’s drawing and still leave something is unmistakably a painting.
  • For Greenberg, every time an artist removes something for painting and still leaves a painting, the discipline becomes stronger and purer.

Is the monochrome  limit, beyond which you cannot go and still call what you make a painting?

Is this still a painting? (There isn’t any paint..)

Spatial Concept 'Waiting' 1960 by Lucio Fontana 1899-1968

Lucos Fontana, Sptical Concept, 1960

‘Modernism has found that these limiting conditions can be pushed back indefinitley before a picture stops being a picture and turns into an arbitrary object.’ Clament Greenberg, Modernist Painting, 1960.

The trouble with sculpture…

Greenberg’s theory works (up to a point) with painting, but sculpture is much more difficult to accommodate.

  • If sculpture cannot define itself, it can never become fully self-critical, and so not fully modernist in Greenberg’s terms.
  • The awkwardness of sculpture made it very attractive for artists who felt constrained by Greenberg’s reductive modernism.
  • Greenberg was not blind to sculpture, he was a supporter of David Smith and Anthony Caro.

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(David Smith, Hudson River landscape, 1951, and Australia, 1951.)

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The trouble with Duchamp…

  1. Humour

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Greenberg wasn’t a humourless character, but the art he supported was earnest. You can never be sure if Duchamp is being serious: the initials below the picture make a mildly obscene pun when spoken out-loud. There is no place for work like this in Greenberg’s account.

2. Intellectualism (or pseudo intellectualism)

(Marcel Duchamp, The Large Glass, The Bride Striped Bare by her Bachelors, Even, 1915-23)

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(Marcel Duchamp, The Green Box, 1934)

Duchamp published this to ‘explain’ The Large Glass. It looks like scraps of paper, but its actually carefully and expensively printed to look that way. Unlike a book, these notes and images have no fixed order.

3. Unclassifiability

belle-heleine1(Marcel Duchamp, Belle Haleine, Eau de Voilette, 1921)

Duchamp has tampered with the label of a perfume bottle, adding his own image and changing the name. ‘Belle Halenie’ means ‘beautiful breath’. ‘Eau de Voilette’  means something like ‘veil water’ (whatever that means). Is this a sculpture? A photograph? A text? A performance?

  • Rrose Selavy was Duchamp’s transvestite alter-ego. When pronounced in French her name sounds like ‘eros c’est la viw’ (love is life).
  • Duchamp’s work, just doesn’t fit into Greenberg’s scheme describe the developing and essence of modernism.
  • As a later generation of artists looked for ways to challenge Greengerg’s account, or to find a way around it, Duchamp became an increasingly important artist.

Harajuku Street Style;

  • “Hippy, hillbilly, and hip hop genres are enacted in a self-reliable masquerade without any regard for appearing natural or authentic.”
  • “Take signs out of their original context and transform their meaning in a character bricolage where distinction between reproduction and authenticity is extraneous.”
  •   “Do-it yourself… irreverent but seamless combining of traditional Japanese dress, and western retro fashion, avaunt-grade Japanese culture, futuristic cyber style… hand made and second hand fashion, found/cheap mass-produced objects… combining novelty and tradition, east and west, old world and the modern.”
  • “The more radical the masquerade, the more attention it earns, standing out in a city of twenty million, conforming nature of Japanese culture, the intensity of the pleasure in the subversive, subcultural is heightened-  would be less radical and wouldn’t produce the same intensity.”
  • “Public-private distinction, no public spaces, microcosmic society.”
  • “Living rent free allowed ongoing fashion consumption, public street culture allows respite from the intimate space of the private family home, rejection of what they are expected to aspire to be.”

Characteristics of style:

  • celebration of the non-natural, everything is exaggerated, beyond fashionable and style.
  • combing novelty with tradition.
  • no respect for fashion rules.
  • supermarket of style.

Key Findings:

  • historical context,
  • cultural context, how everyone sees the world,
  • supermarket of style,
  • fashion traveller/tourist,
  • anti-establishment values,
  • subcultural capital.

 

 

 

Acceptable In The Eighties

Post modernism and Post-subculture Style.

Ted Polhemus: (1994,1996,1997)

“media saturated world…sub-cultural boundaries eclipsed by and ever changing plurality of identities in a new, postmodern ‘supermarket of style’.”

  • Thanks to media and Goth, Punk, ect, subcultures became a widely accessible format rather than a secret society as before, there was on the rack items rather than the hand made. Anyone could dip into Goth, Hiphop, or mix the two together to create a brand new personal style.

Andy Bennett: (1999, 2000)

“neo tribe denoted the way individuals expressed collective identity through distinctive rituals and consumption…”

  • Now able to buy elements of Punk, Goth, HipHop off the rack rather than be made to be different, there was no more making clothing from found items as it was in shops with reasonable prices.
  • not formed according to ‘traditional’ sub-cultural rules.
  • there was free movement between the individual subcultural groups.

“fashion tourists moving freely and quickly from one style to another.”

“stylistic game”

“freedom from rules, structural controls and from the predictability of conventional lifestyles.” style of political rebellion.

Hodkison: “stylistic boundaries are not clear cut, a sense of group belonging and identity remained.”

  • Goths have things in common with new-wave goths “individuality, creativity, open-mindedness, and commitment.”

Steven Connor: “Twilight of the twentieth century- cycle of innovation and incorporation, within youth style”

Thornton: “mass media, moral panic, amplification, niche media, music and style marginalised, micro media.”

  • home made flyers and posters for punk shows ect

Thornton: “cultural capital is personified in ‘good’ manners, subcultural capital is embodied in the form of being ‘in the know’, using current slang and looking as if you were born to perform in the current dance style.

Hodkison: “Goths drew upon their subcultural capital to define and strengthen their scene of collective identity, aesthetic, artistic expression by musicians and the exercise of  equally instinctive discriminating tastes in music and clothing by a diverse and open market.”

21st centenary tool box:

  • supermarket of style
  • fashion tourist
  • subcultural capital

 

 

Punk- Smash it up.

Punk, Resistance, and DIY Design.

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Punk was often directly offensive, with T-shirts covered in swear words, and the clothing was often threatening to look at, terrorist/guerrilla outfits. ‘Cut ups,’ and ‘confrontation dressing’ was the norm, a pin, plastic clothes peg, a television component, a razor blade, a tampon, they all became accessories of choice and personal style. Punk was un-fashion, with ‘cheap’ trashy fabrics, PVC, plastic, in vulgar designs, mock leopard skin, ‘nasty’ colours, and items long discarded by the fashion industry. Make up was used for both boys and girls, ranging from lipstick to full-face geometric patterns. Faces became abstract portraits, and hair became an extension of style, hay yellow hair, jet black, or orange with tufts of green or bleached in question marks. T-shirts and trousers told a story with the added extras and with zippers going no where, safety pins holding nothing together, outside seams. School uniforms were customised with graffiti, fake blood, and ties left undone. Rapist masks, rubber wear, leather bodices, fishnet stockings, stiletto shoes, belts, straps, chains, and the dirty rain coat were other element of punk, it was a part of the porn/fetish scene that when seen on the street, in the middle of the day, would cause shock and horror.

Bricolage:

  • (in art or literature) construction or creation from a diverse rang of available things
  • something constructed or created from a diverse range of things,
  • lots of things brought together, mixing to elements of dress or style together to create a new meaning.

Homology:

  • symbolic fit between the values and lifestyles of a select group, its subjective experience and the musical forms it uses to express meaning,

“…certain types of consumption are conspicuously refused- and it is through the distinctive rituals of consumption, through style,  that the subculture as one receives its ‘secret’ identity and communicates its forbidden meanings.”

  • Conventional ideas of prettiness were jettisoned along with the traditional feminine lore of cosmetics, makeup was worn to be seen, faces became playgrounds of colour, shape, and  pattern.
  • Punk was for the working class youth, a rebellion of style, sound, fashion, and taste,
  • “New wave.”
  • Always be subversive, breaking the rules of fashion, style and gender.
  • Questioning the status-quo, why are things the way they are, and why do we do things just because that’s how it’s always been done.

What can I learn from Punks that can inform my practice:

  • Identity,
  • What is fashion,
  • What is cheap and trashing and what is fashion,
  • How can you be visually shocking,
  • Anti-establishment,
  • What are rules and how can they be broken,
  • Gender- sexuality,
  • Youth,
  • Re-signification.

The woman punk made me.

Identifying Gender Ideologies Within Punk:

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“In just three years, from 1977 to 1979, and then another social leep in 1980, the gender map had radically begun to alter…It was during punk that the ‘sex wars’ went underground, that the battle for territory on stage, on the street and in context that made us” ( O’Brien, 1998:186-7)

  • There was a major power dynamic within punk, what was for males and females, what was gendered, and what was socially acceptable. There was a huge bridge for women to cross into being more than a beautiful object to be sort after and desired.

“Punk was also a place where women felt free to express difference…gave women a place to rage. Before the mid 1970s women who expressed seething anger were ostracised as misfits.” ( O’Brien, 1998:191)

  • There was a safe space for women within Punk, there was an outlet to expressed all the suppressed feelings, there was no judgment from other women as they all felt the same, it was a huge collection of anger towards the system and society that would for them to be outcasts for being anything other than passive.

“They draw on the subculture to create feminine identities that contravene the norms of mainstream adolescent femininity…(they) shape their gendered identities by drawing on the rhetoric of punk rebellion and its support for such rebellion.” (LeBlanc, 2001:220)

  • Subcultures were all about freedom from the ‘norm’, growing up with such heavy ideas about a womans place in the world, at home with the children, looking after the home, there was a huge shift into what a women wanted for herself and her life. Punk was all about exploring the ideas of how a young lady should act, and how she should dress.

Children of The Revolution, Punk, Gender, and Subcultural Ideology.

O’Brien (1999)

My own personal notes.

(p186-7) the underlying sexism and oppression became known and shown through Punk,  all the past oppression came into view, more people were becoming aware of the issues felt by women.

(p191) women started to use their voice and emotions, it was not ideal for a woman to be anything but passive, women were able to go against the social idea and be different and human with flaws.

(p194) it was lonely and hard to have an impact on the punk scene as they were given lack lustre role models, they didn’t feel like they connected with. Punk men were breaking social norms but happy to leave punk girls in their bubble. There was no room for dirty punk girls, there was either the pretty punk like Debbie Harry, or be one of the boys. There was no female role model that encased everything punk was.

(p197-8) Punk was something just for women, it built up the early ideas of feminism and then helped to shape the mains ideas that women still question today. 

(p194) many men didn’t understand the struggles of women, they may look ad sound like punks, but they didn’t understand or embrace what punk was trying to do. 

Describe, Analyse, Theory.

Big spiky hair, bleached- anti barbie, shocking, unnatural- Hebdige/ O’Brian.

Bold makeup, blusher over used- war paint/make up makes you pretty- O’Brian.

Ragged and torn clothing, holes- violence/aggression- Hebdige”confrontation dressing”.

 

 

Fight The Power

ISubcultures and the challenging of hegemonic values.

 

                                                       The Zoot Suits.

Within the subculture of Zoot Suits in the 1940’s there was a large scale revolt against the establishment values and the ‘norm’. There was a large scale re-signification of an old, well known item, the Suit. The whole purpose of the Zoot Suit was to rebel against the normal culture, and to intensify and exaggerate something so iconic with power, and business.

The main characteristics of the style followed normal suit rules, the V knot tie, tight collar, but the Zoot Suit makers went a step further, there was a wide brimmed hat placed with the ensemble, and the suits came in wild, and garish colours, lime green and canary blue for example. But along with  the clothing aspect of the suit there was also a walk or strut that enhanced the suit, the wide, mass amount of material in the trousers gave ample movement without restriction. There was also a secret type of vocabulary and slang that was used by the African-american and Hispanic wares of the suit. The whole point f the secret slang was to put down others who looked down on the suitors, to say “we are a gang, and you are not included.’

Through this style it would be a visual assault of who you are and what you stand for, during 1942 the Zoot suit became illegal because if war time rationing on material, but the African-american and Hispanic wears saw this as the government trying to conform them, to control who you were, the suit was still produced and the wears wore the suit with pride. The suit was an expression of “who you are and who you want to be” (Alford, 2009). The Zoot suit became agents of change, and non-nonconformism. The suit became about who you are and who you want to be.

Working with quotes: working with theory;

  • Quotes <> theory- support your claims and arguments, bulk up what you are saying,
  • Quotes should always be explained, what is it saying in your own words.
  • Quotes and theory should always be referenced. ( Author, year, page number)
  • Direct quotes should always have quotation marks ” “
  • Bibliography at the end of the essay.
  • If you paraphrase you still need to reference, author and year only.

 

                                                             The Teds.

 

“Originally, the Edwardian suit was introduced in 1950 by a group of Savile Row tailors who were attempting to initiate a new style. It was addressed, primarily, to the young aristocratic men about town. Essentially the dress consisted of a long, narrow-lapelled, waisted jacket, narrow trousers (but without being ‘drainpipes’), ordinary toe-capped shoes, and a fancy waist-coat. Shirts were white with cutaway collars and ties were tied with a ‘windsor’ knot. Headwear, if worn, was a trilby. The essential changes from conventional dress were the cut of the jacket and the dandy waistcoat. Additionally, barbers began offering individual styling, and hair length was generally longer than the conventional short back and sides.” ( Jefferson, 1976, cultural responses of the Ted in McNeil, P; The men’s fashion reader, berg, Oxford, P366-369)

What can I learn from the Zoot suitors, and Teds that can inform my practice?

  • Race,
  • Social norms,
  • Identity,
  • Youth,
  • Historical rules,
  • Breaking social rules.